Literature review of the day

Today's NYtimes has an article on the weak dollar, foreign shoppers, and the limits some retailers are placing on shopping for luxury goods.


Can you imagine actually being wealthy enough to stockpile handbags in order to resell them for profit overseas?

Love, Ms. M

Lengthening the leg, the rest of the story

As many of us know, the right cut of jean can transform your body. Trouser jeans are a cyclical trend in fashions--especially fall--but they're also great wardrobe staples no matter what season. Like all good trousers (no matter what the fabric) trouser jeans should hit you at your widest point, then drape straight down. Period. The most flattering cut on the body.

However, today is all about building the image of a leaner, longer leg--building upwards from the foundation of a good heel, and for that you need the use of a slim, boot-cut jean.

So, how to combine jeans and shoes to get the right look?

First, it must be stressed that not all jeans can be worn with all shoes. There are jeans you wear with more casual clothes and flats, kicky sneakers, sandals, etc. Then there are jeans that you can only wear with high heels.

As impractical as that sounds, it's true. I have my heel jeans, and I have my flip-flip jeans for road trips. The accessories and shoes never switch sides.

So, back to the long, lean leg....

The illusion we're creating is one where the majority of your body is leg (a fictional scenario, I know), but an illusion that is made up of two key ingredients--super long jeans and high heels.

Shape, color, and length of jeans:

The idea is to find somewhat slim-cut, darkwash jeans that flare only so slightly at the bottom, (we're not talking huge 70s flares, ladies). This subtle flare counterbalances any width issues up top (which we all have).

I'm been a huge fan of Gap's Long and Lean line for years. They are much more affordable than high-end designer jeans, don't seem to fade that quickly, and come in a range of lengths, which is key.

By designating a "heel jean" that means you need to buy longer cuts of your favorite style. For example, normally I just wear the "regular" length when bumming around in flats, however, I always get the Long and Lean's in the "long" length for my heels. Another great gauge of length--in my bare feet my I have about 3-4 inches of fabric on the floor.

The merest peak of a shoe, no more:

But, once the heels are on the goal is to have approximately 1 inch of shoe exposed beneath the cuff of your jean. It's especially important when it comes to heels (see "Lengthening the leg, the foundation"). Any more exposure, and you risk looking like a trashy date at the local roadhouse (see image at right for example of how not to look, unless, that is, you're auditioning for Rock of Love, Season II: washed-up 80s girls bring the horrors of bad fashion back to life).

The bottom hem of your pants should break (or hit and slouch slightly) no further up than the middle of the top of your foot, (which, when positioned on a steep incline of a heel, means all you should see is a little toe cleavage and the bottom of a spiky, mysterious heel jutting out on the bottom.

Pointy-toe heels are best, as they continue the length of your leg, but I digress...

By purposely wearing longer jeans (with the stlit-like prop of a high heel hidden behind the curtain of a longer hem), people interpret the visible fabric as the true length of your leg... a stupendous, but glamorous lie.

Love, Ms. M

p.s. image courtesy of http://images.chicalert.com/75OffDesignerFashionSale_14D5C/seven.jpg

Literature review of the day

The latest issue of Harper's Bazaar arrived yesterday and they feature an interview with Bottega Veneta's creative director, Tomas Maier.

While in a luxury market unattainable by most, BV has always created spare, yet beautifully elegant, dresses, accessories, and more casual wear. They perfectly sum-up the rich leather creams and greys of spring. Check out the segment on their site called "The Art of Collaboration." The still images truly remind you how beautiful and organic Italian life can be--a rich, but simple, use of materials, and a true appreciation for craftsmenship.

[insert sigh]

Love, Ms. M

p.s image courtesy of http://www.frillr.com/?q=node/973

Lengthening the leg, the foundation

I have a (not really minor) obsession with Christian Louboutin's shoes. Last year when every Olsens, Jessica, Kate, and Nicole were wearing the cork platforms I was mildly impressed, but the saving grace was his red sole.

However, since that time I've learned a lot about his secret tricks and gimmicks that he uses to lengthen the leg, raise the heel, and still make women look amazing.

Check out Angelina's shoes at the Critics' Choice Awards. Red sole, red interior platform, all masked by a satiny finish.

Someday I wish to own a pair....

Lucky's character inspiration

The latest issues of Lucky arrived in the mail yesterday and it's chock-full of great things.

Unfortunately, Haden Panettiere's cover look evokes a semi-patriotic 12 year old. I was especially disappointed in how the photographer didn't tell her the slouch pose gave her creepy midget arms...

Anyway, ignore the cover and jump to a few great editorials on how to handle the boho-chic (but not unpolished hippie) layers for spring. I'm rather fond of the "Paris" ensemble they put together in their Stylish and Sexy Guide. Note how each city evokes a character, a look, and taps into that inspiration for every earring, scarf, and application of eyeliner...all unique, all great.

Note how simple layers--top, bottom, cardigan/jacket--made of ligher, diaphanous materials can remove the fall duldroms and still keep you warm until May.

Also, a great spread on non-stripper-looking patent heels: great ways to introduce color in an all-black wardrobe.

And lastly, the neutrals of spring. We've seen them in mags for a while but buttery beiges, golds, dove greys, and peaches are everywhere. Aren't bold enough to wear electric blue (wasn't that a Debbie Gibson song?); perhaps these more edwardian palettes are up your alley. For the best ideas which mix neutrals and classic lines, check out PS's resort line from 2007.

Unfortunately the glossy grey Agaci platforms they have in the magazine are missing from the shoe store's website.

Love, Ms. M

Meet Marc...

Normally I file Marc Jacobs under the crazy-as-a-mad-hatter column: genius with bouts of bad ideas (i.e. yesterday's shoes).

However, his latest ads feature M.I.A., the only woman I know who can pull off neon purple eye shadow.

He's also got a cute link on his site where you can learn more about his employees. Pretty cool for an industry that is usually all about the name on the tag. But then again, this is the man who attended an office costume party dressed as a camel toe.

Love, Ms. M

The shoes!

I realize I was tardy with my shoe rant last week. I'd been waiting for all my new magazines to come in over the weekend to give me extra inspiration....nada.

My apologies.

So, back to the ridiculous side of spring--what many designers consider "fun" accessories.

Refer back to my masthead image from last week (see right).

Does this seriously look like anything you'd wear to work, or out for drinks? I understand that fashion is art, but the majority of us dress to create either an aura of mystery, to mask our physical flaws, or to evoke a classic style of eras past.... not to be performance artists.

Unfortunately, springtime fashions often run amuck with these more disposable, cutesy, and post-modern turns on classics--often made from cheaper, waterproof materials. (Big warning sign: if it looks like it's make out of plastic--or is--and it still costs a ridiculous amount of money, you'll hate it in 2 months).

These black holes of fashion are the money-makers for the industry: trends that so embody a season and designer that only up-to-the-minute starlets dare wear them. There are good reasons for this: they're usually not paying for it, they're craving attention, and they won't feel guilty if they never wear it again.

We, on the other hand, will have that plastic transparent mule (you know who you are, Ms. Steamy feet,) in our closet for years, accumulating dust and guilt.

Back off and stay away. And, if you do have the unfortunate taste to buy something like this treat it like a special-issue Bob Mackie Barbie (another abhorrent fashion byproduct): don't use it, keep the packaging, and sell it on Ebay in 30 years to the fashion curator at the C.I.

Love, Ms. M

New Exhibit at the CI

In totally unrelated news, the Costume Institute at the Met has a new exhibition focused on fashion blogs as venues for cultural criticism and dialogue. If you travel to the museum you'll be able to view the artifacts and log on to start trashing or raving. Or, you can also link right in and start commenting now.

Ms. M

Waisting away

Today it's all about the waist. Not really a trend, you say, more a body part... But like the Americas, it's being re-discovered by people who act like it's something new.

Spring's lines are featuring the usual suspects: sailor palettes of navy and reds, flowy florals and satins, and linen and cotton weaves with a bit more starch to their underpinnings. All good things, (with the exception of the clownish, impractical shoes... more on that tomorrow). "Resort" and spring lines historically have drawn on vintage and feminine lifestyles of years past for inspiration, (Oscar does it best), but today's post isn't just about seasonal trends, but what's working well for our bodies.

You'll notice the majority of well-assembled looks have one key ingredient: a defined waist.

With the rare exception of a few sari-like draped dresses for the long-limbed, last spring and summer's tunics are gone. Being a guilty purchaser of several Forver 21 versions I now cringe at my photos from this era.

Yes, they're cute and if made well can evoke a 60's flounciness, but we all have to remember this was also the era of Twiggy. Tent-like shirts, make you appear tentlike in photos. Wider is not better. I now diligently tuck all of them in, slap a belt on top, and try to minimize the child-like collars with as many necklaces as possible...

So, you'll have to get past the Out of Africa safari looks this spring: cute, but too casual for a party, to costume-y for work...they require a specific event, like tea with the Queen in Nairobi....but you'll see that designers have re-embraced the feminine form.

By highighting the narrowest part of your body with wide belts (not every single day, however); tailored, nipped-in jackets; and separates that define the sections of your body, you're all set.

I'm loving this "trend"(or collection of trends that is), what women have looked good in for 50+ years: a well-defined waist, pointing shoes, lady-like make-up.... hopefully designers won't screw it all up come next fall.

Love, Ms. M

Spring hasn't sprung

Spring isn’t here. But as all the fashion magazines promote one season long before the previous one has ended, we get to shiver through the next few months of winter while seeing images of bare legs and chiffon in all our publications.

However, being prone to fantasy and procrastination, I find dreaming of spring to be a good thing. Like the current season, textures, color, and accessories are getting bolder—some inappropriately so--but a few more florals are appearing on the scene.

Stretched over the next few days will be thoughts on what’s coming up, what to ignore, and what fall/winter trends will be sticking around for a while:

Bright colors are here for a bit longer, but remember, like a good gym trainer, they can shake-up your routine.

As I’ve noted before, bold, eye-catching color is finally back in swing. However, as I’m guilty as the next lady of giving-up and choosing black, here are some ideas:

1. Stick with the clothing classics and basics (remember “the list?”) but buy them in jewel tones you love: get the ruby-red sweater, not the grey one; an ocean-teal skirt, not black; etc., etc.

Get the idea? If it’s a basic shape and cut you love to wear—or need to wear—you’ll wear it, color or no color.

2. However, how to pick the right colors without looking like a fool?

Everyone has a favorite color. Many of us know our signature color by what makes our eyes, skin, and hair look good; plus you always get more compliments when you wear it.

I, for example, am always drawn to blues, but I have a tendency to pick the “safe” blues: cornflower, baby, navy…So, a pick a color and ramp it up a notch—bright turquoise, electric blues, royal blue-purples, and secondly—crack out that art school color wheel.

Remember complimentary colors? Red and Green, Purple and Yellow, Blue and Orange.

If you have one you love, try its mate—you may be surprised.

Again, the goal isn't to be walking primary color chart, but to play with the inspirations and tones. "Yellow" isn't just yellow, it can be limey-lemon white, olive-undertone gold. "Red" isn't just crayola red, it's shades of hot pink, salmon-beige, and plum-blue maroon.

I never had the cahonejes for classic red—plus my skin is just too pinky-yellow for the shade. However, orange; the color-wheel tag-team partner to blue? Awesome.

My next party-dress goal is to hunt for a formal, structured number in Buddhist-monk saffron.

Love, Ms. M

Image courtesy of Marc Jacobs Spring 2008